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Thursday, February 21, 2019

WEEK 140----The early years---beers drank locally(part 1 of 2)

It's been about 10 years( or slightly less than 10) when craft desert KL first saw any sort of craft beer choices available locally---this is like back to the starting point ---looking back at what was available at local craft places(like only a hand full of them anyway) does trigger realization that we did had it quite good back then though there's been very little progression (or more like regression) for the last few years in terms of varieties of styles/choices.
“顽啤主张”每到年底都会写“年度最有印象啤酒/蜜酒”清单,借此回望过去一年碰到过的精彩酿品,算算这几年,虽然长期身在没有太多精彩选择的craft beer沙漠,也算有幸喝到不少顶级作品,但这些很多时候都是或通过啤迷朋友帮忙或出国时候喝到,要说在本地市场有进口能找到的当然不多,但也不是完全没有好喝的,这期就来回看好些年前本地craft beer市场开始阶段碰到的一些酿品,看看喝了些什么:-
Obviously there's been quite a lot of beers consumed in those early days---here's some of those:-
1) Brewdog Dead Pony Club & Punk IPA
to say it bluntly---most geeks would give a damn about Brewdog nowadays---while they have been very successful business wise in expanding to every corner possible be it in the UK or overseas market( word is that KL might see one not too long from now)---the fact is that beers from Brewdog no longer command attentions from geeks---once you past that early years of craft drinking---Brewdog beers became boring----those two were of course pleasant ones 6-7 years ago here in KL---and likely still nice for newbies.
很不客气的说,很多啤迷对近几年的Brewdog完全无感,因为这家当初让很多新朋友感觉惊喜的英国酿坊近几年都忙着扩大营业版图,没有什么值得关注的新作品。不过,话说回来,在大概6年前本地第一次可以喝到这两款酿品时,对吉隆坡这个沙漠来说是件值得高兴的事。虽说如今的Brewdog不怎么样了,不过对新朋友来说这两款(一个低度易喝,一个强调啤酒花效应)还是不错的入门选择,只是一旦过了关,就很难引起一喝再喝兴趣了。

2) De La Senne Zinnerbir
This is one beer which made it's way into KL some 8 years or more ago---thanks to an importer friend who imported in small quantities exclusively for his own Belgium restaurant initially and turned to beer importing after that----it's still available now along with Taras Boulba at certain places in KL nowadays even though the restaurant biz ended few years ago.
比较早期能在本地找到的比利时小酿坊作品(还好现在也是能找到),清爽带水果啤酒花甘香的易喝性高,对刚开始喝比利时大厂啤酒(比如什么H花园)的新朋友来说可能会觉得有苦涩感,不过一旦味蕾接受度被打开,就会了解到真正好喝的比利时啤酒味道长什么样子。

3)St.Bernardus abt 12
A classic no doubt---one which tasted sweet and so smooth it was a dangerous one to drink at that time because newbies don't really look at label for ABV at times---if you are new--do take note that it's a 10% beer.
这是支对新朋友来说可能点危险的啤酒,因为把高酒精藏的很好,不看酒标喝起来顺顺的感受不到10%的“攻击”。在本地算是不定期能找到的比利时经典啤酒之一,虽然一开始感觉喝起来香甜顺滑的,但层次不只有那样,如果新朋友酒力还在进修中,比较保险做法是跟朋友分着来喝比较没有负担。
4)Mikkeller Beer Geek Breakfast
When KL had it's first ever craft beer bar---it was obvious that the two Danish breweries TO OL and Mikkeller were the star attraction---this particular one has been a personal favourites--booking a few bottles whenever limited new stocks were in has been the norm.
本地第一家craft beer吧开始时,最亮眼的两个北欧品牌就是“米记”和 TO OL(因为当年两家是联合处理物流运输关系,本地进口商每次都会集合两家的作品一拼运来,可惜的是近年本地渐渐少看到这两家作品),“米记”在当时就已多产多变为人知,每年都有很多不同作品出现,那么多作品中,这款较低度“早餐系列”黑啤让人惊喜,是当时看到就会开喝的一款。

5) Yeastie Boys Golden Perch & Rex Attitude
This brewery from NZ is one of my early years favourites with interesting brew such as the very light body but heavily peated(nose) Rex Attitude---the very pleasant Golden Perch(no longer in production)---as well another tea infused one---Gunnamatta(tea in a beer or the other way round) ---sadly we no longer see any NZ beers being brought in here since few years back.
这家纽西兰酿坊有几款有趣好喝作品,这两款趣味完全迥异,一款非常清爽可口,另一款虽然酒质轻盈易喝却散发着不是人人能接受的威士忌泥炭味,是当年喝了再喝的两款,此外,这家还有一款以伯爵茶酿造的“茶啤”,喜欢茶的不会抗拒。可惜的是,这家作品在本地已经很久都看不到了。

6) TO OL Black Maria & Black Ball
These two has been the pick of the lot among some very nice selections of what was available back then locally from this Danish brewery---partly because back then Mikkeller was helping with logistic of TO OL hence the local importer would packed up both in one shipment---sadly TO OL beers been missing from KL for quite a long while since moving it's logistic to Belgium though recently some beers been available locally again.
来自北欧的“双啤”也是多产的,不同类型风格啤酒选择很多,较早期的本地专卖吧有不少精彩作品选择,这其中喝的最多的是黑色印度淡啤(Black Ipa)的Black Maria和虽然是理论上酒体比较薄的Porter但喝起来醇香厚实不输一些stoutsBlack Ball。当然这家的精彩作品并不只是这两款,不过以几年前本地能喝到款式来说,这两款确是最受青睐的。

Monday, February 4, 2019

WEEK 139----from Beer Pairing to Michelin Star---another chat with Chef Dan

It was back in early 2016 when this column/blog had a chat with Chef Dan---few months after Upstairs quietly in operation late 2015---it was never going to be an easy ride with the fine dining+ beer pairing idea---not when the general consensus of wine  & dine is so deeply rooted in most people's mind.
*you can check the previous chat here:-
啤酒和米其林星级餐厅美食,在绝大多数人脑中根本起不了联系,对很多人来说啤酒就只是啤酒,没什么美味层次可言。不过凡事有例外,这个刻板印象被曼谷一家从一开始就坚持啤酒搭餐,完全不提供葡萄酒的CASUAL FINE DINING餐厅狠狠打破了。
UPSTAIRS餐厅2015年底从寂寂无闻开业到20172018连续2年得到米其林一星认可,多年前放下芝加哥米其林三星餐厅副主厨光环在曼谷从零开始的美籍韩国人DAN BARK师承大厨CURTIS  DUFFY,曼谷餐厅虽说位于曼谷“米吧”楼上配啤酒理所当然但也逆水行舟,毕竟美食配葡萄酒刻板观念根深蒂固。
“顽啤主张”2016年初和CHEF DAN对话过,能感受到啤酒搭餐概念的艰难,几年后的如今,看CHEF DAN怎么说:-

Good thing is---there's always exceptions to general consensus---from late 2015 to now early 2019---the beer pairing concept is still the theme for Chef Dan's fine food---in fact it worked so well Upstairs won 1 Michelin star two years in a row(17 & 18) ---firmly establishing a strong footing in the ever competitive Bangkok culinary scene.
3 years plus and counting---what has changed or not changed since then and has it in anyway the Michelin star influenced them? had a chat recently with Chef Dan, here's the full version:-

1) 2years in a row one Michelin star restaurant --what has changed in terms of customers perception/ acceptance level of beer pairing?
- The acceptance level of beer pairing has definitely increased.  I believe people are more open to the idea and the true foodies are seekers of flavors so they are more open to trying new flavors even in beverage side.
1 连续两年获得米其林一星认同有助改变食客对啤酒搭餐接受度
答: 接受度有明显提升,对啤酒搭餐概念有比较开放态度,喜欢美食的食客追求的是味道层次,包括喝什么


2) Do you still have customers asking for wine list? 
- Yes we still have lot of people asking for wine list.  I don't blame them though.  Wine have been the beverage of choice with fine dining for decades.  It's only natural to seek what we are used to.  But the important part is that more guests are now willing to give craft beer a chance.  That is all we can ask for and it's my job to not disappoint them. That is the pressure and challenge we have to carry everyday. 
2还是有食客问说有没有葡萄酒搭餐
答:  是的,还是有许多食客问。这是能理解的,毕竟葡萄酒搭餐由来已久,这几乎是好多食客惯性问题。重要的是,有更多食客愿意尝试啤酒搭餐,这是餐厅日常需要面对的挑战

3) The star recognition-- has it in some ways help to reduce stereotype about beer being too boring/cheap alcoholic beverages to be worthy of being served at fine dining restaurant?
- I believe there are lot of boring/cheap beers out there just like there are lot of boring/cheap wines also.  The important part is whether it is beer or wine, our guests deserve the best so we must pour the best and most exciting beer we can get our hands on.  I believe the Michelin star recognition has helped confirm that we won't serve boring/cheap beverage.
3米其林一星认同有没有某种程度上改变食客对啤酒只是廉价无趣饮料,跟美食不配看法
答:  就像葡萄酒也有廉价无趣版本那样,啤酒的确也有那样的,我们只会挑选当下最好匹配的啤酒搭餐,也相信米其林星级认同说明了我们不会提供廉价无趣啤酒


4) On average, what might be the ratios of diners opting for beer pairing vs those who do not want beer(for whatever reasons it might be) ?
- It's around 50%
4选择啤酒搭餐跟不喝啤酒食客大概什么比例?
答:  大约50巴仙,各一半。

5) Looking back and going forward, what would be some of the bigger challenges trying to make fine dine beer pairing a more commonly/ readily accepted norms ?
-I think the bigger challenges will be economics actually.  The F&B industry is already saturated with wine.  So many restaurants and hotels are already heavily invested in wine that it would be hard for beer industry to enter the market.  I believe if it's strictly flavors, it shouldn't be too hard to pair fine dining with beers.  The culinary trend right now is to have lighter, vegetable/herb focused, and balanced flavors on the dish.  These flavors will go better with beer.  Compared to the past where the dishes were more rich and heavy which wine would pair better. 
5回望前看,让啤酒搭餐概念比较普及化的主要挑战是什么
    最大问题在于市场经济效率,很多餐厅酒店都大量投资葡萄酒存货,意味着没有太大空间让啤酒打入。从味道层次角度来说啤酒搭餐并不难,当今饮食趋势注重较清淡均衡味道,这很适合啤酒搭餐,跟以前食物味道比较重口味时葡萄酒搭餐比较匹配概念成了对比。


6) You mentioned about not so into craft beer initially -- having been drinking some finer brew & more varieties of styles---whats your view about beer nowadays and has that impacted your take on food beer pairing ideas in anyway? 
- Not really.  I always just focused on flavors and it wasn't about forcing something for the sake of it.  We didn't do beer pairing for the ideal of it because I just thought the flavors worked.  So it's still the same even after having tasted more finer brew.  I just have more options now ;)
6从开始不太熟悉啤酒到近年喝了不少顶级酿品,这些经验有没有影响啤酒搭餐构思
答:并不会,注重食物风味是一贯思路,啤酒搭餐更多是因为跟食物风味匹配而做,近年是喝了些好酿品,要说有什么改变的话 或许是现在好啤酒选择更多了吧

7) Visiting Copenhagen beer week and being at MBCC last year -- seeing brewers and geeks gathering up close --what's your impression/ thoughts about this craftbeer comunity event of the year ? 
- You know those movie scenes where some small guy walks into a bar full of bearded biker gangs? That's how I felt at the MBCC last year.  But I had amazing time talking with the brewers and getting to know them.  They are very intuitive to flavors and have really good palette.  And I had the honor of meeting Daniel Cady, a brewer at Mikkeller San Diego.   We talked about beers and flavors and came up with Upstairs//Downstairs beer which I think it's one of the best lagers I have tasted.
7去年体验了哥本哈根啤酒庆典这个啤迷年度盛事有得到什么感悟启发
   就像电影场景中身材瘦小的走进到处大胡子飞车党酒吧那样,是踏入MBCC会场第一感觉,跟不少酿酒师聊天交流,都是对味道层次有要求的人,也促成了跟米记圣地牙哥酿酒师合作,为餐厅酿造一款名为“楼上/楼下”的易喝可口浅啤


8) From the year when upstairs first started to now, what sort of journey it has been so far?
- It has been an amazing journey.  The Michelin star and getting our own beer made is awesome, but seeing the dining room full of happy guests and watching our staff grow and improve everday is so much more rewarding.   
8从几年前开业到现在米其林加身,这是个什么样的历程
    相当神奇的历程,从米其林认可到拥有餐厅本身啤酒,看到吃得开心的食客还有餐厅员工成长都是乐事

9) Going forward, what would be some of the things Upstairs looking to achieve?
- Our motto is to be better than yesterday so just keep improving everyday even in the smallest details.  
9往前看,餐厅有什么想达到的目标
答:  我们的座右铭是比昨天做得更好,会一直寻求进步,就算只是细微的


10) to people who still think fine dine and beer does not pair up or being sceptical -- what would you say to them? 
- There was a time when people were skeptical of the New World wine also.  It took time and the new world actually making great wines consistently for them to be accepted.  I'll say give it a try but it's ours and the craft brewers responsibility to deliver consistently. 
10想对仍然对不认同美食啤酒搭餐概念的人们说什么
    就像以前新世界葡萄酒不受认可那样,有时候新概念需要时间证明, 会对不认同啤酒搭餐人们说请试试,当然餐厅和酿酒师们都要担起提供稳定水准美味的责任

Sunday, February 3, 2019

2018 Most Memorable Beer List-----by Liam(Hong Kong)

This is a list by Liam---a geek friend i know at a bar in Bangkok few years ago---quite fitting to Liam's list which touched on friendships among friends--including strangers who became beer friends / real life friends
here's the list in his own words( in Chinese)--while i do a little bit English interpretations:-

多謝朋友 Ct再次邀請, 這是我第三年的 精釀啤酒年度難忘事件”, 跟以往一樣, 難忘的很多時候都是與人有關, 而不在於酒, 更重要的是, “喝酒靠朋友這一 格言愈顯重要!!! LOL


1. Mikkeller Bangkok 4th Anniversary Party
 主理人Mikkel看似十分重視曼谷 Mikkeller bar 4周年派對親自前來慶祝酒單當然不容忽視, Hill Farmstead, The Veil, Superstition, Mikkeller 各種罕有酒款......最高興莫過於遇到新舊朋友一起喝酒, 一起到 Upstairs Mikkeller 用膳絕對是2018年關於精釀啤酒最難忘的事件..
mikkeller Bangkok just celebrated their 5th anniversary yiesterday----Liam went early last year for the 4th anniversary with a few friends and thoroughly enjoyed the beers(some specially flown in Hillfarmstead-The Veil/Mikkeller collab-Superstition mead and of course meeting old and new friends and a wonderful dining & beer pairing session at  Upstairs.

2. De Struise Brouwers "Black Damination XIII to XXV" tasting
beer geek 朋友都愛垂直或平行品飲, 比利時的 De Struise 旗艦系列 “Black Damnation” 將他們著名的 imperial stout “Black Albert” 作不同酒桶陳釀或加入特別材料, 今次分享的 XIII XXV 就是用不同威士忌, 冧酒或蘋果白蘭地酒桶陳釀, 一次試盡13 750 ml imperial stout 當然不是易事, 邀請了10多位beer geeks, 吃得飽飽的, 才能將它們細味又不致於喝醉! 老實說, 不是對威士忌認識很深, 但泥煤味重的在是次品飲中較特出!
Vertical tasting is a thing to some geeks---this time Liam and a group of guys gathered to do a range of 13 different Black Dmanation series---BA with whisky/rum/apple brandy--you name it----of all tasted the one with significant peated influence won Liam over.

3. Tired Hands Brewing Company "Control Voltage"
月到美國公幹時第一次親身排隊買啤酒, "Control Voltage" 是加了4倍啤酒花, 12% abv QIPA! 強勁的啤酒花像芒果般的果汁感滿載最厲害是感受不到 12%的酒精絕對是喝過最佳的imperial NE IPA!
Had that while on work trip to the states----with loads and loads of hops---at 12% abv it was tasting very mango juice like--no hints of alcohol---definitely the best NEIPA tasted so far.

4. Stanley Tam's farewell party
Beer geek 好友 Stanley 移民加拿大前的品飲派對當晚的啤酒陣容不容置疑最重要是大家通過精釀啤酒建立友誼比各稀有酒款更難能可貴!
A farewell party for geek friend Stanley who was migrating to Canada---the bottles were good but most importantly friendships were built through craft beer--and that's quite something

5. Carbon Brews "Crazy Rich Lupulins"
在早前的文章也說過它是我 2018年買過最多次的酒款很高興香港酒廠能釀造這高水準的 NE IPA. 曾嘗試在入罐後不同時間品嚐相差兩個月質素有所下降是理所當然但依然是可接受的水平!!!! 期待下批用上更新鮮的啤酒花!
As mentioned earlier in Liam's post---this is one beer he had the most in 2018--glad that HK locally brewed NEIPA is of such high standards---hoping for even better ones next batches......

6. Omnipollo x 3 Sons Brewing Company "Gideon's Pancake Stack"
Omnipollo 愛釀製液態甜品般的 "Pastry Stout" 人所皆知今次夥拍剛奪 Ratebeer 最佳新酒廠的 3 Sons 合釀 "Gideon's Pancake Stack", 波本酒桶和最愛的楓葉糖漿味道特出酒體一貫的厚重幼滑, 跟他們提意一樣配以太太做的pancake作配搭作早午餐感覺幸福!
A dessert like black magic brew from Omnipollo---a collab with 3sons---this one is packed full of bourbon and maple syrup goodness---paired it with pancake made by wife---it's a bliss.


7. Sharing with US beer geeks
精釀啤酒能拉近geeks的距離又一例證多得beer geek Kenneth 的介紹與回港度假的 Ben來個 "港美交流", Ben 酷愛stout, 帶來的 Bottle Logic, Bruery, Perennial Artisan Ales 等等的質素當然不用多說都是那句老生常談 "酒好不好喝其次重要的是跟朋友的交流"
One good examples that craft beer do get people closer---with intro by Kenneth--Liam got to know Ben who is very fond of stouts---big stouts---though regardless if the beers tasting real awesome or otherwise--- important thing is communications among friends.

8. Other Half Brewing “Mylar Daydream”
NE IPA 樂此不疲的我, 很慶幸認識老家在美國紐約州的 beer geek 朋友 Paul, 常常帶來新鮮的 Other Half IPA, “Mylar Daydream” IPA常用的 Citra, Galaxy Mosaic 啤酒花, 果汁感十足, 質感幼滑, 甜度較其他酒廠略高也是我喜愛他們的原因, Other Half 依然是我NE IPA 酒廠三甲之選
Through another geek friend Paul--Liam has the chance to taste fresh NEIPA  from NYC such as Other Half----this one was so juicy/smooth/sweet---Liam does love Other Half's NEIPA and regarded them one of top 3 personal favourites


9. Goose Island Brewing Company "Vanilla Rye Bourbon County Brand Stout" 
從群組 "香港精釀啤酒俱樂部" 認識了美國beer geek Gary, 在分享會中帶來一向深得炒家喜愛的 "Vanilla Rye Bourbon County Brand Stout" 和其他 Bourbon County  stout, 名不虛傳加入大量雲尼拿籽和黑麥威士忌酒桶陳釀的 "VR", 在平衡度和複雜性也是無懈可擊總之一枝頂級imperial stout 要有的它都有了.
Liam got to know a geek from the US--Gary via the craft community group--HK BeerGeeks--this bottle was brought by Gary during a sharing session in HK---very balance and complex--showing all the goodness of a great imperial stout.

10. Garage Project “Yuzukoshō”
他們的啤酒一向是話題性, 創新和質素兼備, 今年的新作“Yuzukoshō” 用了日本的調味料柚子胡椒作概念, 這酸pilsner完全感受到此感覺, 卻不突兀, 有趣又好喝, 當沉悶時來一口, 立時讓你精神一振, 是讓人感到快樂的一瓶.
Always full of innovation and talking points---this brew from Garage Project utilized Japanese Yuzu/pepper among others---a fun and tasty Pilsner--one which happily wake up the senses.