WEEK 104--the MUTATION of craft to MACRO-CRAFT

这期的英文是没按照报纸专栏中文版本，而是有点随心而写。

Yes--this is old old news already by the time it show up here.

五月第一个星期，很多不同城市啤迷都在议论美国酿坊wicked weed被国际大厂啤酒巨无霸AbinBev（曾烧大钱打广告讥讽craft啤迷只是装模作样一群）收购事件。

大厂啤酒国际大公司收购craft品牌不是第一次发生，啤迷反应基本离不开"失望"，"不屑"，"嘲讽"这些字眼。当然，也有表示"理解"，"赞成"，"是件好事"的人。对一般人来说，这只是一桩交易，有必要各种情绪反应？

啤酒一直有不同的两个世界，一个是只注重卖三几个单调产品，以追求市场占有率盈利最大化为目标的MACRO BEER。 

另一个是craft beer --小量酿造，注重不同类别风格口味的美味世界。

But it's still worth a shot to at least try to let people know that there's indeed a world split into 3 :-MACRO BEER, craft beer----and the mutation which is MACRO-CRAFT 

在出现千变万化不同类型风格口味啤酒选择craft之前，啤酒世界只有大家都熟悉的大厂啤酒(MACRO BEER)，那是基本没口味类别选择的世界，长期那样淡出鸟来情况下，有人开始试着酿造自己想喝啤酒，于是craft慢慢从自酿自供变成现在的百花齐放。

两个理念迥然不同的啤酒世界之间是界限分明的。如果把MACRO比喻为有钱有势，生产成本利润都有明确指标的豪门企业，craft就像刚出来创业的普通人，有的只是想把啤酒变得更有趣美味想法，对抢占市场低成本高利润这些生意概念不会放在第一位。说白一点，MACRO就是市场至上，利润为尊的生意人，craft则像是有点理想化的创作人。
In Asia--beer is obviously not a daily necessities--people would buy more other types of beverages than alcoholic ones--and if we zero in on craft beer segment--it's even much smaller.

With low awareness about craft beer--where generally people would only associate BEER as the whole and only truth they could think of when asked about beer--let's try and point out the differences:-

MACRO--multi national corporation giants--only focusing on a few famous brands-usually simple lager or pilsner and keep producing in mega volume--easy access is the key--flooding market is the aim- cutting down/out market competition is the means.

craft beer--thousands of small breweries--all sorts of beer styles/ varieties--flavour profile is the key--producing "what we could/ what we want" is the motto--fighting to be number 1 best selling beer in the market is NOT encourage by any means(though aiming to get rated as number 1 could/would be ;)

MACRO-CRAFT--the mutant born out of the marriage of MACRO and "once a craft" breweries--in other words--the MACRO-CRAFT are those craft breweries which for one reason or another decided to hold the hands of MACRO giants through a sell out deal.

了解craft文化的啤迷几乎都从喝MACRO BEER开始，因为那样，更能体会craft酿坊致力提供不同类别风格口味啤酒享受的努力，对只以三几个畅销品牌单调无趣啤酒抢市场的MACRO没好感。

换个角度看，可以说因为MACRO长期“市场专制”导致craft的出现，一定程度上，挑战“市场垄断”，“既定规则”的叛逆意味很浓。

MACRO和craft既是完全不同理念，不同经营手法，不是一条路上的人，怎么会走到一起？答案很简单，卖掉的craft要钱，MACRO要市场。

so why would MACRO buy into a craft? and why would craft sell?

the reasons:-

MACRO needs to grow market share--and the only way to enter the craft market is by buying up existing craft breweries- what's better than using craft to fight craft?
craft sold out for MONEY( it could be for betterment of future growth-reaching out to more drinkers-retirement or maybe simply being naive--you name it- but end of the day it's MONEY- period)

跟不久前卖给同一家MACRO的上海拳击猫(BOXING CAT)一样，wicked weed卖的理由是因为可以凭借国际大公司的财力和分销网更好的发展。对出钱收购的MACRO来说，近年美国市场销售额下滑意味着必须做点什么制衡已经抢占啤酒市场十多巴仙的craft，既然自家品牌啤酒肯定不能跟那么多类别风格啤酒抗衡，那就来个以craft制craft，有什么有效过隔岸观火，利用原本同理念的酿坊打击自己打不过的敌人？

表面看起来，卖给MACRO的酿坊可以造更多啤酒，至今没有供应链的地区也可以连接上，酿坊可以更好发展，更多人可喝到优质啤酒，怎么看都是双赢，有什么好说三道四的？

实际上，被大厂收购的craft例子中，啤酒质素不见提升，相反的因为收购後为了业绩盈利而省时省力导致啤酒质素下滑的例子不少，这也是啤迷反应消极的主由。

By choosing to hold the hands of ABInBev - WW has chosen to become a CATEGORY of products under the wings of MACRO BEER -and by doing so -- contrary to what WW might think - they have also chosen to leave the craft community- yes, its only beer and friendship might stay - but the one thing WW might not realized when deciding to take the money and support from AbinBev is that the craft community is a wicked bunch - people in this community has got common belief that craft should remain craft - associating with MACRO is NOT. 

或许这样比喻，喝被大厂收购的MACRO-CRAFT有点像是去挂名米其林星级的连锁餐厅吃东西，可是，我们都知道，在本店以外吃到的，绝对不是星级食物，吃的只是宣传效果。

MACRO收购craft一定程度上也带来情绪挫折，像球迷拥护球会球星那种，打个比喻，如果梅西转会皇家马德里，或者说C罗转会去巴塞罗那，对一般人来说就是普通的球星转会买卖而已，可是，对皇马或巴塞球迷来说，这根本是天塌下来的大事，如果最能象征球会的核心人物转到死敌怀中，那种情绪反转只有迷才能理解。

There are some who slam geeks for being a bunch of "cry babies" who cannot see others getting a handsome pay off for years of hard work to build up that craft brewery/brand name--No Doubt--it's the absolute rights of the owners to decide what to do next with their own business/brand/brewery--that part is clear--there's no doubt they can decide to sell out to whoever they like.

Craft当然是生意，任何生意都有买卖可能，这是正常现象，只是，craft是有点特别的生意，有一定文化因素存在，没有MACRO那种各种手段砸钱抢占销售管道做法，也有反大企业垄断市场的"叛逆"心理因素，如果说一家craft酿坊最终目的是要成为百亿生意，那并没有错，啤迷唯一会觉得有问题的只是，酿坊是按照自身路线一步步前进，又或是说，一旦出现大厂收购这个捷径时候就改道了？

任何酿坊都可以决定抄小路走捷径，那是酿坊品牌主人的决定，那之后，啤迷也会决定那家酿坊的定位，不再会是craft，而是带讽刺意味的新名词-MACRO CRAFT。

Also--there's no shame at all if a craft brewery declare openly that their aim is to be the number 1 best selling beer by volume in the craft market--or say to be a 100 million dollar business--there's nothing wrong to aim for that since craft beer is after all still business.

BUT--the moment a craft brewery took the short-cut of taking money from MACRO giants--that's where all the "complications" starts.

WHY CAN'T craft brewery merge/side with MACRO? is MACRO that evil? while a deal of MACRO buying into craft is generally perceived as nothing more than business--it is a big deal in many aspects (culturally-emotionally-and in the longer run market competition wise) to craft community and beer geeks, imagine these scenario:-

-ask yourself if it feels right to buy Messi if you are a Real Madrid fan? or buy C.Ronaldo if you a BARCA fan?

-if you love hand made/gourmet coffee--would you like Nescafe/Starbucks to own your favourite beans company to "make better coffee" more accessible to drinkers?

-if you love food--and you just heard McDonalds bought your favourite gourmet burger shop--so as to help grow the gourmet burger market?

It's true craft beer is a business hence every breweries/brewers can't run away from the harsh test of business competition/pressures of making a business sustainable/profitable--BUT--what makes craft business a little special is the unspoken community spirits--the craft culture--most geeks understand the common languages of craft--tying up close with MACRO giant's money/power is NOT one of them.

it is clear MACRO-CRAFT is aiming at newbies- people who would try craft beer for the first time--the ignorant, the "beer is just BEER- who cares who owns what" crowd.

By acquiring craft and making good use of them to fight the fight MACRO could not enter with their own beers--it is a "smart move" since they are capitalizing on the IGNORANCE of most drinkers who either don't know what are the differences between craft and MACRO--or just simply don't give a fxxk of who owns what.

In a small way--saying beer is only BEER or "i just drink--it's too complicated to understand craft beer" or " do i need to know who owns what to decide which beer to drink?" is a little similar to we earth people upon hearing about Global Warming or when maybe London- New York or Bangkok might completely disappear from the horizon--it's something which many would brush aside as "none of my concern- too complicated to understand--too distance from my daily routine".

to say the need to protect craft community from the clutches of MACRO is almost like trying to save planet earth is a little far fetch- but if we take a closer look at what JEAN of CANTILLON posted on FB both on 2nd APRIL & 10th MAY about rejecting 1 time craft turned MACRO-CRAFT Birra Del Bogo and how giants killed off competition and hence the closing down of lambic breweries in and around Brussels some 40 years ago--then maybe it's not that far fetch....( here's screen-shot of both posting--for more detail please check Cantillon FB)

WEEK 103--some basic ideas of CRAFT---PART 3

still on the back to basics series:-

1)Why Drink Craft?

the answer is simple--palate enjoyment

it's the same reason why people tend to seek out something delicious to eat--if you would demand food to be tasty--why not beer?

1) 为什么要喝Craft Beer？

答案很简单，味蕾享受。

跟为什么喜欢好吃食物一样，如果对吃有要求，喝啤酒怎么就没要求？酿得好的啤酒可以带来很多意料之外的不同层次美味享受。

2) we can find fruits/chocolate/coffee(and more)in a beer--why not just eat/drink those instead of finding the taste in beer?

It's simply NOT the same.

just like food item such as cheese/kimchi or soy sauce needing  to go through "FERMENTATION" process--that somewhat "magical" fermenting process will make the food items becoming uniquely delicious in a beer form.

2) 如果美味是因为有水果味，巧克力味，咖啡味之类的，那直接吃水果巧克力喝咖啡不就解决了？

不一样的。                  

有道过程叫发酵，个中变化会带来奇妙作用，就像芝士泡菜豆酱等食物需要发酵变美食原理一样，发酵过程让酿酒食材变成另外一种境界的液体美食，也有酿好後放入其他酒类木桶熟成作法，让风味层次更添变化。

3) Beer is full of gas/carbonation--it makes one feel unpleasantly bloated

Yes--carbonation is part of beer--and if all you know is MACRO BEER then it's a huge part of it--we all been ingrained as to how a perfectly served pint must have a rather thick head.

BUT--in the world of craft beer--carbonation is NOT the same for every beer--depending on the style of beer--some would have very less or no carbonation when served--though some would have almost Champagne-ish carbonation to create those little bubbles in a beer....

Does carbonation makes you feel bloated? perhaps that french fries/potato wedges or chicken wings that went along with the beer would be responsible rather than just your pint.

3) 啤酒有气泡，喝了肚子涨感觉很饱

不完全对。                                       

一般人观念中，啤酒完全就是气泡饮料，不过，在Craft Beer的世界，不是所有啤酒都有着相同数量气泡，有些类型啤酒完全没泡或只有少量气泡，也有些啤酒特意加强气泡让啤酒带来类似香槟细致口感。

这是为什么Craft的世界很好玩，颠覆了大家一贯以为很了解的所谓“啤酒泡”认知，更提供了各种各样适合不同人口味的啤酒类别选择。

4)Beer is alcoholic beverages-how to best enjoy it without getting shit-faced?

The solution is simple--first you need to know what's your limit/alcohol tolerance level--if you are not sure--drink a few times and you would find out.

Always remember these 2 key factors:-

NEVER drink with empty stomach

AVOID drinking when you are too tired physically/mentally

4）啤酒有酒精，会让人醉倒，怎么喝才能最大程度享受？

任何酒精饮料都有导致醉倒可能性是不用质疑的事实。

每个人酒精承受度不一样也是事实，喝多几次就能找到自己承受力度。

Craft文化不鼓励牛饮斗酒，不希望饮客醉倒，而是要像欣赏美食甜点那样浅尝细味，最重要记得一定不可空腹或太疲倦状态喝酒，那只会是没事找事，醉倒之余也浪费酒

Drinking craft beer can be like savouring nice food/dessert--it's never about gulping/binking--take your time--find out more about the flavours you like in a beer- just relax and enjoy.

5)So any craft beer must be all nice and tasty?

Well--if one were to compare with MACRO beer --craft beer would be much tastier with much more flavours/layer to discover.

BUT--the fact is NOT ALL craft beer is great--there's different level of brews out there--it's kinda like there's so many Chicken Rice or Burger stall out there--but NOT ALL are of the same deliciousness--it's the same with craft beer.

The only way is to find out yourself--drink more-read some-talk to people-observe--and you will slowly find out which are the better ones.

5) Craft Beer是不是随便选都肯定好喝?

这样说吧，如果跟一般大厂啤酒相比，Craft会比大厂啤酒有层次，好喝。

如果已喝上一段时间，就会发现，不是所有冠上Craft名义的就一定好喝，因为会有一些人把自认已经很有水准的难喝啤酒拿到市场上卖，情况就像卖云吞面或海南鸡饭一样，总有学艺不精的。

解决方法，自己多点发掘好酒，训练味蕾，提高鉴赏力就比较容易辨识好酒或劣作。

6)What to do when met with "awful beer"?

there's a few scenario here pertaining to "awful beer":-

BEER GONE BAD

if the beer taste awful due to "handling issues" such as long exposure under strong sunlight or already infected during bottling/canning process--the only way is to pour down the drain.

6) 碰上难喝啤酒怎么办？

如果是：-

A）因为储存不当变质或酿造过程或装瓶/灌出问题例如感染，那就直接倒掉。

NOT WHAT I EXPECTED

if a beer taste "awful" because it's of a flavour you don't like( a beer tasting like coffee which is not your daily drink)--OR say you like coffee quite a lot and expecting your beer to taste more coffee like-thicker---but initial sips seems disappointing....

then it's not really a bad beer issue--but more of a getting used to new flavour issue--or that the beer has yet to warm up....

there's a few ways one could try to turn that strange tasting beer into something drinkable:-

A) try wait for a while longer to let that beer warm up to see if it would become something more drinkable?

B) try blending the beer with some other styles of beer( you could mix 1 with another 1 or another 2- it's your call) to see if that beer would changed into something more likable?

C) If you really don't like what you drinking--and if your friend/s don't mind/ or that stranger sitting next to you at the bar don't mind--just let go of it--let others try if they like it.

B) 觉得不对味，比如不喜欢咖啡却喝到带咖啡味啤酒，又或说喜欢咖啡可是好像不浓郁，可以试着让味蕾慢慢适应，实在不行，可以试着1)等久一点，让啤酒回温再喝看是不是有变圆润顺滑好喝, 2）混其他类型啤酒看会不会变好喝，3)请别人喝。

BEYOND CURRENT APPRECIATION LEVEL

If a beer is tasting awful because it's way beyond your palate appreciation level--then it's a totally different issue--it's a case where you maybe drinking 1 of the best brew in the world--but due to lack of understanding of the taste profile a beer could bring- the current level of your palate would not be able to appreciate what's coming-hence the immediate rejection/reaction.

There's been some real stories going round about how a geek would find his/her Trappist beer or Lambic missing from the fridge only to know that it was opened and drain poured by some family members who thought the beer were"tasting funny/ maybe gone bad"!!!

So --if you met a beer which you are not sure but thought it's tasting "awful"--you might want to ask this question "is it really a bad brew or is it something my palate could not handle as yet?" 

C）超出现有味蕾认知范围--意思是，因为没想到啤酒会有这些味道，味蕾反应不过来，下意识抗拒。这是正常现象，很多新朋友都面对过，在现阶段觉得难喝的啤酒，可能过一段时间味蕾训练和鉴赏力提升了，就懂得其中奥妙。

7) just give me THE BEST beer

In consumerism- it's common to hear that sentence " just give me THE BEST" though at times those who fork out handsome cash don't really know what he/she bought into?

In the world of craft beer--what is the best beer would be a question NO ONE can give definite answer to--in a beer world full of varieties of styles--who can tell the world what is the best?

Yes--there's a list of world best beer/top beers if you follow Rate Beer or Beer Advocate--but are those list the definitive definition of THE BEST?

Nope-it's not the case--those list you can choose to think it's the best beer list--or you can just look at it and say  " i think this particular beer is more deserving to be on the list but it's not"

7) 只选择喝最好的啤酒不就好了？

虽然网上两大独立评酒网站RATEBEER和BEER ADVOCATE每年都有排行榜，不过，懂得啤酒的人都知道，就算排名第一的啤酒也未必就是最好的，不同类别风格啤酒那么多，口味选择又是个人喜好因素决定，很难确定A的最爱一定也是BCDEFG最爱。更何况，有些盛名在外欧美啤酒，因为产量少，有时候有钱也未必买得到。

虽然很难确定什么是最好，不过，喝上一定时间，味蕾鉴赏力达到一定水平，就能知道上佳，中上，平庸和劣作之间差异。

In the world of craft--varieties is key--tasting and finding out more flavours you like in a beer is the key reason why geeks are so into it--there's probably no THE BEST--but there's certainly awesome brew--solid brew-average brew and awful brew--you will know how to differentiate when you drink up to a certain level :)