Tuesday, May 19, 2020

WEEK 169---the "Avengers" of craft beer---PART 2/2

When selecting the "wish-list" of what a beer geek would want in his/ her line up---it would be quite inevitable that Lambic would naturally pop up though the same cannot be said of Mead(partly due to the lack of supply here in Asia---as well the fact that mead is relatively not as popular or widely accepted as beer)
<复仇者联盟>自选名单下半部继续,以下自选两个不同酒类型中,对不少啤迷来说比利时天然发酵果酸啤酒是肯定不能或缺的重要啤酒风格,相对来说技术层面上并不属于啤酒范畴的蜜酒则不一定会是众多啤迷的必选。

LAMBIC
To geeks who have already submitted to the magic of Belgium lambic---there is simply no escaping the fact that this is one beer style many geeks would write down first on his/her list---though not every Lambic breweries/blenderies from Belgium are of equal strength---but it is a fact that some the world's best beer are made/blended from here---there's arguably no arguments when it comes to spontaneously fermented sour beer that the Belgium Masters are the ones to look up to.
比利时特有美味酸啤酒是全球酸啤迷的最爱,因为特有地区野生菌的神奇功效,历史背景还有一些大师级酿坊的高超酿酒手法,让比利时Lambic在酸啤爱好者中享有绝对崇高的位置,虽然不是每一家比利时酸啤酿坊(或混酒作坊)的作品都是同一水平,但有几家大师级酿坊/作坊作品水平绝对高到让人赞叹,也因此奠定了比利时Lambic的至尊酸啤酒地位。
Among the many Lambic makers in Belgium---the 2 biggest names sour beer geeks love are 3 Fonteinen & Cantillon -- each having some bottles listed very high up on many geeks' wanted list---though some bottles are so hard to get(especially if you don't live around Brussels) that they would mostly remain as "wish/dream list bottles".
说起比利时Lambic一定会提到两家大师级酿坊,3FonteinenCantillon是绝对标志性的酸啤佼佼者,从常态款到稀有款或实验作品,这两家无论是酿造/桶陈/混酒等不同工序所展现的高水平功力是毋庸置疑的,对懂的酸啤爱好者来说,两家都有好些作品是列在“啤迷最想喝到酒单”中的,虽然好些酒对不是住在布鲁塞尔啤迷来说是限量难寻“可遇不可求”或只能通过黑市炒卖给“天价”才能有机会品嚐,但如果有机会在酿坊首卖买到又或者是坐在里边品饮室享用的话会发现其实原价非常合理,问题只在于啤迷是不是在对的时间点能遇到这些珍品佳酿。 
在比利时,除了上述两家之外当然还有好几家酿坊/混酒作坊都各自有高/超高水准作品,比如备受推崇一瓶难买的小作坊Bokke,比如在亚洲能喝到买到的Tilquin又或是Giradin等等都是上选。
Lambic is generally a beer style in relatively small production--hence limited in supply---but when it comes to name like BOKKE which is a small blender with very small capacity--trying to get hold of a bottle can be quite an impossible task at times---though luckily for some of us living in Asia(especially Japan)--there are quite steady supply of Lambic from some breweries/blenders--including Tilquin(also a blender)---as well as Giradin--another personal favourite of mine.

MEAD
why Mead is being associated or say "group into" craft beer is an interesting question/scenario---because obviously mead is NOT beer( apart from Braggot which is theoretically half a beer) but a totally different category of it's own -- personally i would think the association of Mead with craft beer is more because of the spiritual link( basically most if not all are small craft brew people) rather than for technical reasons since mead making is much more closer to wine making than beer brewing.
相对比利时天然发酵果酸啤酒来说,蜜酒的受众层面还是比较少,技术层面上来说,除了混合麦芽蜂蜜为发酵基底原料的Braggot可以算是“半啤酒”之外,蜜酒这个类别是别具一格的,也当然不是啤酒,至于为什么会跟craft beer界扯上关系,最直接表现应该说是啤酒和蜜酒酿酒师们因为都是小型酿造,也经常会在一些特定啤酒庆典活动中共同参与,在精神层面上来说更多的是一种惺惺相惜,就自然的玩在一起了。
如果纯粹从酿酒技术层面来说,比起啤酒,蜜酒酿造其实更接近葡萄酒,两者之间最粗略分别是,葡萄酒以葡萄果实果皮果汁为酿酒基本原料,而蜜酒则是以蜂蜜为最关键基础原料酿造。虽然有悠久的起源历史,近年开始从只是传统式发酵蜜糖被提升至精酿层次的蜜酒至今仍不普及,知道什么是Mead的人并不多,了解蜜酒并不只是甜(因为蜂蜜酿造带来的偏见)而是可以像craft beer那样有着各种不同口味变化可能性的更加少。
Mead is relatively a smaller crowd item than craft beer as a whole--the fact is that most people do not understand what Mead is--even some beer geeks don't---or some might think Mead is only about sweetness since it's using honey as base when brewing---which is of course NOT TRUE---though Mead is about using honey but the interesting part about Mead is how different flavours can be made by way of brewing/barrel aging/adding fruits or spices or other food items much like how craft beer can have so many varieties of taste & smell.....
蜜酒酿坊和很多craft beer酿坊一样都是小型作业,在很多以啤酒为主的craft beer节庆活动中也能看到一些蜜酒酿坊的参与,两者虽是完全不同类型但也融和的很好,不少啤迷爱啤酒的同时也爱蜜酒。不过,相对于比利时天然发酵果酸啤酒在亚洲部份城市仍有相当高机会可买到,蜜酒在亚洲市场无论是不同酿坊品牌选择或是供应量来说都非常有限,好几家顶级蜜酒酿坊都在美国境内,所以亚洲蜜酒迷之间的玩笑是,要有机会找到喝到顶级蜜酒的话,最好办法是先认识几位美国蜜酒迷好朋友。
的确,以个人喝过一些为数不算多的欧美蜜酒作品来说,最顶尖的三家蜜酒酿坊都在美国,包括位于伊利诺州的微型作坊Pips Meadery,密芝根州的Schramm’s 以及亚利桑那州的Superstition都是有着非常出色佳酿的美国顶级蜜酒酿坊,其中因为Pips的供应量实在太少,所以除了实施会员制之外一些酿品首卖还需要抽签决定谁能买到。
这三家之外,另一家美国同样位于密芝根州的B.Nektar  以及来自北欧瑞典的Sahtipaja也是非常值得关注的高水平蜜酒酿坊。
Here in Asia---Mead supply(especially the awesome ones) is obviously very lacking since it's still very much a relatively unknown category of alcoholic craft beverages---the inside jokes among some of us geeks who love mead is--"perhaps one might stand a better chance by hooking up with some US mead geeks" as some Top Notch meaderies are located in the US--for examples Pips Meadery & Schramm's & Superstition---which are also my top 3 meaderies from the States having tasted some of their brews.
Apart from those 3--basing on what i have tasted so far --would say B.Nektar & Robbit's Foot---as well as Sahtipaja from Sweden are all of high standard brews which i would love having more of ....