Thursday, November 29, 2018

WEEK 134---Off Flavours---the unpleasant side of craft beer

Just like any other things in life---there's always differences in quality---same for craft beer in the sense that besides differences in brew quality--there's also this chance of beer gone bad either because of low brewing know how/ bad ingredients used/ or due to bad logistic/handling of good quality beer. 

啤酒是通过酿造而来,酿造过程可以比喻为类似烹饪/煲汤/煮糖水那样,需要讲究对原材料比如食材香料的认识,对不同材料组合能带来影响,还有酿造过程中温度火候调度等等细节的掌握。因为那样,除了原材料等外在因素,就像厨师那样,不同酿酒师的酿酒功力和想法/企图心基本可以决定一款酒会走向美味,平庸或者难喝。
就像所有通过人手去做的事情那样,结果总是会有上佳优良平庸低劣之分,酿酒也一样,就算是整体来说一定比大厂啤酒好喝许多倍的Craft Beer也无可避免会有好喝,一般般或难喝酿品。
When a beer gone bad---there's always signs indicating that mostly by ways of smell/taste and at times visible signs such as strange composite/ no carbonation( for particular style of beers) and so on so forth.

In short----when a beer gone bad---it's always associated with Off-flavours which comes in different taste/smell depending on styles of beers---there's already plenty of information/more in depth write up about this topic hence this newspaper column piece is just a very simple/brief one for newbies.

啤酒难喝的原因可以有很多,简单来说基本可分为两大类,其一是一开始就没酿好所以出现不良风味,其二是酿好後没有被照顾好所以不同程度的退化变差甚至坏掉了,两种情况下,啤酒都会出现不应该有的味道/口感,这些都是不良风味所导致。
啤酒的不良风味具体表现不一,有时候强烈的让人闻一下喝一口就知不妥,但也可能不那么强烈需要细心才能察觉,以下是一些比较常见情况:
To put it very simply---off flavours would occur when a beer is half baked, i.e. badly brewed   OR  some form of contamination happened either during brewing or bottling/canning/tapping from a bar beer pipeline   OR  due to bad logistic arrangements when transferring beer from point A to point BCD or rather the lack of care either during transferring or after that.....
some of the off-flavours mentioned in the articles includes:-
1)Rusty/Metallic
No body likes a beer smelling/tasting that way.
1)铁锈味
这是大家都能理解的不良风味,简单说就是啤酒中带有生锈味,像是喝从生锈水管或铁罐中的水,当然不会好闻好喝。至于为什么会出现铁锈味,具体原因可能是在酿酒阶段时水质有问题又或者桶有生锈问题,也可能是酒酿过程没问题但在装罐装瓶(坏掉瓶盖也可能导致锈味)时出现问题导致。
2)Light-struck
Common problems with bad handling when beer is exposed under direct sunlight/strong lightings
2)晒坏味
任何啤酒只要直接在阳光下暴晒或曝露在强烈紫外线下,基本就会毫无疑问完蛋了,酿酒师想要展现的原有风味都会消失殆尽,剩下的只是日照臭味,啤酒像经过烘烤麦水那样,就算冰冷也感觉像是刚从烘烤炉拿出来那样总有股“温热”异味,喝起来别扭,当然只能倒掉
3)Oxidization
Kinda like exposing your slice up fruits in direct contact with air---you know it will not end up well--for beer those drink when fresh types of beer will end up bad with every passing days.
3)氧化味
时间会导致啤酒氧化,此外,酿造过程中问题,不适当收藏啤酒比如闷热环境(太过长久收藏需要新鲜喝啤酒情况更明显)等情况都会让啤酒出现氧化情况。如果要问什么是氧化,很简单,试试把香蕉苹果梨子切开让放一旁後就知道,氧化会让切开来的水果变黑,同理来说,氧化也会让啤酒失去应有鲜度(看啤酒类型而定/一些啤酒可收20年以上而且陈年可丰富啤酒风味),氧化会让一些类型啤酒比如IPA/PALE ALE/SAISON/FRUIT BEER等喝起来有过期麦芽苦味,类似湿纸板异味等不良风味。
4)Butterscotch (Diacetyl)
Butterscotch is not really a bad flavour is it? but for beer style which emphasis on clean/clearer taste/smell profile--then it's a bad sign---what's more if it smell/taste like butter way past it's prime.
4) 过期奶油味
啤酒发酵过程中会产生属于可控制问题,但超标就不行,比如说在强调清爽味道为基调的啤酒中出现这种味道,那就是酿造途中出了问题没处理好就把酒拿出来卖。
The fun part about off-flavours is that it's not always a straight forward issue---though the golden rules is that no unsuitable flavours should ever appear in a particular style of beer---say for examples a German Weisse beer would be expected to be malty/sweet/refreshing and smelling clove/banana---any other thing such as funky smell or say tasting sour would be signs of beer gone bad, and the same can be said about IPA/Pale Ale where any signs of Funky smell/Sour taste would be deemed bad signs----but if those two were to be missing from a Lambic then something is deemed very wrong coz funk and sour is a big part of any decent Lambic.

以上只是一些较常见例子,啤酒中会出现的不良风味至少有十多种不同风味表现,那到底不良风味是什么?简单说就是不应该在某类型啤酒中出现的风味,由于Craft Beer不同类型风格酒款繁多,不良风味并不是单指一两样比如说像食物馊掉那样明显的不良气息/味道而已,在不同类别风味Craft Beer中,除了几个通用的(比如晒坏比如铁锈),什么是具体不良风味其实会有不同表现,简单来说,啤酒会出现不良风味有时是因为酿造过程对温度控制不到家,就像烹饪煲汤讲究适当时候用大火中火小火/高温低温那样,一旦酿酒师没掌握好就会出现问题,此外,酵母麦芽等原材料的质素(比如酵母是不是健康,比如麦芽是不是已老旧)也可能导致不良风味出现。
比较有趣的是,在不同类别风味众多的Craft Beer世界中,有时被认为是不良的某种风味到了某个特定款式啤酒中却变成是可以接受甚至是特色,比如说一旦IPAPALE ALE出现“酸臭味”那会是非常不良风味啤酒变坏证据,但要是换成天然发酵果酸啤酒(LAMBIC)的话,带有类似“酸臭”风味却是这类型啤酒美味特色之一!
不良风味这件事,听起来虽有点复杂意味,但简单原则是不对的风味不能出现,比如清爽带甜的德国麦芽啤酒不可能出现酸涩,大家可通过累积品饮经验慢慢了解什么是什么,有心想弄清楚的也可以上网查找BJCP啤酒裁判课程多了解。

For any of you newbies who wishes to understand more about the topic there are more info to be googled, for examples BJCP site and many more......

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