here we go:-
連續幾年都邊拜讀CT大的啤酒專欄MBCC心得文邊流口水，這股總有一天我也要去的衝動，終於在參與MBCT 2018後付諸實現，去年不僅前往丹麥參加全球最強啤酒盛事之一MBCC 2019，也趁機前往啤酒聖地之一的比利時朝聖，2019年絕對是接觸精釀啤酒以來感動最多的一年，讀萬卷書不如行萬里路，古人誠不我欺！再次感謝CT今年又邀約我寫文分享，能讓我把一整年的感動與收穫分享給更多人，獨飲啤酒固然有其樂趣，但獨樂樂不如眾樂樂，與同好一起分享的感動與交流互動帶給我更多收穫與樂趣！
前年東京啤酒之旅參加完MBCT 2018後心癢難耐，回台灣沒多久，發現丹麥原版啤酒節MBCC2019開賣就忍不住買下去了，感謝同行所有台灣酒友，當然最要感謝的就是台灣精釀啤酒界大學長、亞洲最強壯男人林幼航，才能帶領這麼多台灣啤迷齊聚一堂！
The Taiwan geeks during 2019 MBCC in Copenhagen--special thanks to Yuhang Lin for leading the way.
Been following what ct been writing about his CBC/MBCC trip experiences for few years with saliva flowing from my mouth---the thought of "i must one day make it to Copenhagen fest" finally came true last year after participated in MBCT 18---the best thing was not only visiting Copenhagen for MBCC 19 but also made it out to the Lambic holly land of Belgium---2019 certainly was the most moving year ever since i first encountered craft beer---thanks again for inviting to share thoughts--while drinking alone is not bad but sharing and exchanging thoughts with fellow geeks is much more fun and rewarding...
檢視去年一整年的精釀啤酒總括可以用「緣」字來下註解，相較於前年密集安排分享會程度，去年喝酒數量和時間都銳減許多，認真檢視去年所喝啤酒品項，台灣本土或進口品項的數量減少許多，像以前所有台灣進口新品必追狀況已不復見，雖然台灣本土酒廠或代理商的優質選項是越來越多，但可能心境上開始轉變，對自己想要的越來越明確，有時並不會特別追求CP值或僅僅為陳年而買酒陳年，「一期一會」是最深的體悟。
總之以下特別挑選幾款去年個人特別喜歡或令人印象深刻的酒款分享給大家，可能是單品，也可能是特別喜好的一整個系列。一趟歐洲行讓我解鎖許多成就，其中比利時啤酒許多經典神酒讓我拓展許多視野，雖然大部分都是Lambic (笑)，但我就先從比利時啤酒開始談起，接著再陸續談談其他歐洲酒廠(丹麥、荷蘭、英國…等等)方面，最後在針對美國酒廠和其他地方的酒款進行補充。精釀啤酒本來就很強調個人喜好或品的展現，大家輕鬆看待即可！ (以下順序非名次排序)
歐洲之行終於不僅跟許多同好重逢，也認識了不少來自世界各地的啤酒愛好者，以及頂尖釀酒師，從去年MBCT喝到比利時酸啤廠Bokke之後就驚為天人，很開心去年有機會跟Bokke釀酒師Raf和其他團隊成員面對面交流。
Europe trip means meeting many like minded geeks as well brewers--very happy to have met Raf of Bokke fame--hypnotized by the deliciousness after first drank during MBCT 18
Looking back---the one word most suited for last year's beer encounters is "fate"--in terms of time spend or consumption--last year was a lot lesser than before---gone were the days when i would chase after whenever there's some new beer entering Taiwan--though there are now more better choices available in both local craft brew or imported ones---perhaps due to changes on how i approach craft beer---now no longer go after value for money factor or buying for the sake of aging---one at the time--appreciating what's in the glass at the moment is the key realization.
Here's my pick of 2019--could be a bottle or a series of bottles--the Europe trip has been a big one personally in terms of fulfilling wishes/pilgrimage---so will start the list with Belgium beers and subsequently others( *numbering is strictly just numbering---not about ranking whatsoever)
1. Cantillon – FouFoune
說來不可思議，但這的確是我第一次喝到FouFoune ，這也是Cantillon 常態陣容中最受好評的其中一款fruit lambic，基底搭配的是一種法國產的bergeron杏桃，剛好在年中歐洲行分別在比利時和丹麥各喝過幾次不同年份(2016和2019年)、不同供應方式(瓶裝和桶裝)的版本，其中在比利時布魯塞爾市區知名酸啤酒吧Moeder Lambic靠市中心的分店喝到的桶啤版本最令我回味，同樣是當年份裝瓶版本，酸度相對其他版本來得柔和，且杏桃風味呈現更加細緻且綿密，而陳年過後的版本酸度都拉高許多，相對的杏桃風味下降許多，難怪雖然這款至少可以放十年，但官方仍建議裝瓶後一年內喝最好，以新鮮的桶裝版本來說是目前喝過杏桃風味酸啤中最喜歡的。
quite amazingly--this is the first time i have the chance to sample a FouFoune---one of the best loved fruited lambic from Cantillon--had a few of 2016 and 2019 version at Brussels and Copenhagen--with the one serve on tap at Moeder Lambic most memorable with softer less sourness mouth feel---apricot flavours were more delicate when compared to the aged bottles which tend to show higher level of sourness with less apricot flavours. No wonder the brewery recommended best to drink within a year of bottling.
2. Cantillon –Blåbær Lambik 2017
(750ml)
全球酸啤界的傳奇大酒之一，是專為丹麥哥本哈根酒吧Himmeriget獨家限定販售的特別版，基本上只能內用，但通常每年在MBCC活動前幾天會有個Blåbær Day開放能將酒外帶，去年酒吧在活動日還特別同時開了2009和當年份2019的桶裝版本給大家平行比較，扯遠了…，總之當時也趁機垂直比較好幾種不同年份版本，分別2015(375ml)、2017(750ml)、2018(750ml)，其中個人最喜歡2017年750ml 版本，酸度明亮但不過頭、藍莓果香仍適當展放，Lambic獨有的Funky風味也不至於被果香壓住，極度平衡且討喜的風味展現，難怪吸引眾人前來，總之有機會來到哥本哈根請不要錯過內用機會！
One of the most sought after/legendary sour beer--a blue berry lambic brewed exclusively for a particular Copenhagen bottle shop which subsequently has evolved over time to became what now Himmeriget bar---had the chance to sample 2015--2017--2018 version. Personally love the 2017 version--clear sourness but not overly sour with blue berries coming through the uniquely lambic-ish funk--balance and lovely---if you ever at this bar --don't miss out.
3）Cantillon
–Iris 1998 & 2018
追溯起台灣進口Cantillon，在亞洲絕對是算數一數二早的國家，其中Iris算是早期接觸特別品項中的啟蒙款，少了小麥的使用與將50%酒花替換成新鮮酒花，讓他喝起來有辨識度，但說到要垂直品飲可能只有頂多10年區間的跨度，去年上半也只做2013~ 2018年不同瓶裝版本的垂直品飲，難得有機會在台灣能喝到這款比利時傳奇酸啤跨越20年的垂直品飲，仍是令人印象深刻的一次經驗！
去年台灣發售的2018版本帶些明亮的青梅、青蘋果酸香、木質調桶味及柚皮般的輕微澀感，後續延伸出的低度草本風味到尾韻，碳酸感略明顯，且收尾頗乾爽，表現依舊傑出；而這款20年前的Iris
1998則是在2000年才裝瓶上市，可以看到經過近20年的歲月顏色已從橘紅轉為深紅棕色，從開瓶較濃厚的Funky風味慢慢轉變成木質調和些微焦糖感為主導，尾韻帶出明顯乳酪風味，隨著回溫慢慢透出明亮酸韻，但草本風味幾乎已消失殆盡，感覺得出已過巔峰正在走下坡，當然也可能是保存環境關係(主人表示僅進行衣櫃熟成)，希望還有機會能夠見證這款酒的陳年潛力！
Taiwan is one of the early years importers of Lambic into Asia (after Japan)--Iris is one special lambic i've encountered during early craft drinking days--with the mix usage of old and new hops--Iris has got it's own unique smell and taste
Its rare opportunity to have vertical tasting of 1998 Iris vs 2018 Iris here in Taiwan---the new one was more of green plum, green apple, aok barrel influence with low herbal goodness--clear carbonation with dry finishing---the old bottle was brimming with funk when opened--and then more oak and caramel like--finishing with cheese like note--more sour tone when warmer but no herbal notes---showing it's age but might be due to way of cellaring too---hope to have chance to further sample some more old version of Iris.
Its rare opportunity to have vertical tasting of 1998 Iris vs 2018 Iris here in Taiwan---the new one was more of green plum, green apple, aok barrel influence with low herbal goodness--clear carbonation with dry finishing---the old bottle was brimming with funk when opened--and then more oak and caramel like--finishing with cheese like note--more sour tone when warmer but no herbal notes---showing it's age but might be due to way of cellaring too---hope to have chance to further sample some more old version of Iris.
4. 3 Fonteinen - OGV 2014(750ml)、2016(375ml) & Cuvée Armand
& Gaston Vintage 2015 (Magnum)
與Cantillon齊名的比利時酸啤廠3 Fonteinen是少數保存自己釀造Lambic原酒也自行調和Lambic的酸啤廠，但因他們自家釀造的原酒不夠，因此基本款分為兩款：只用自家釀lambic調和的Cuvée Oude Gueze Armand &Gaston (A&G)，來與可能分別與其他另外三間酸啤廠(Boon，Lindemans和Girardin)原酒勾兌的Oude Geuze(OG)作區別。其中酒廠更針對每年份裝瓶後的酒保留一部分直接在地窖中存放至少三到五年以上，直到酒廠覺得陳年後風味受認可足以推出時，才會多冠上Vintage名義後僅在比利時當地推出。
今年剛好兩種酒款都有喝到Vintage版本，其中A&G是首次推出Vintage版本 (2015 )，同時也是少見的Magnum (1.5L)瓶裝版本，比起一般款酸度更溫和但仍然清脆，稍微回溫風味就很明確，引出青蘋果和Funky風味，明顯碳酸感與乾爽尾韻，整體充滿活力，邊吃大稻埕桌菜搭這款實在太愉悅，讓我迷上3 Fonteinen酒廠Vintage相關的酒款；另外一款OGV 2016 是推出適合單人享用的375ml小瓶裝，酸度稍微尖銳但Funky風味非常明顯，稍微回溫後可以輕鬆喝完，但覺得還有陳年潛力。這兩者酒標上也特別向比利時藝術家Felix de Boeck致敬，使用其知名畫作系列(Nachtlicthen)作為酒標，辨識度特別高。
另外在歐洲行造訪酒廠時也在火車上遇到前年在MBCT啤酒節認識的同好Justin，大家一起趕火車回市區，他掏出還沒喝完的OGV 2014分享給我，老實說詳細風味我早已忘記，但與同好重逢分享好酒的美好記憶已銘刻在心。
3 Fonteinen is of course another big name Lambic maker--was able to sample their Vintage version( launch only after at least 3-5 years of aging at brewery) of 2 different Oude Gueuze--both Armand & Gaston brewed and made by 3F--as well the Oude Gueuze version using wort bought from others( Boon, Lindermans & Giradin).
Had these 3 different ones both in Taiwan as well in Europe---Armand & Gaston Vintage 2015 was a magnum---with a more gentle sourness--lively one after warming up with clear notes of green apple, funky, carbonated and dry finishing. Oue Gueuze Vintage 2016 was more sharp in sourness--also with obvious funky nose--very drinkable but felt like can still age for a few more years.
The 2014 OGV was a bottle shared by fellow beer geek met during MBCT 18 while on a train back to town after brewery trip in Belgium--a nice memory indeed.
5. 3 Fonteinen - Twist of Fate VIII.ii : Shaarbeekse On A Toast (Medium)
- Blended &Alive
自家釀造原酒一直不太夠的比利時酸啤廠3 Fonteinen，經過這幾年努力，從2015年開始推出有100%使用自家釀原酒的Lambic，接著也在2018年宣布不定期推出極少量的小批次實驗釀造系列作品──Twist Of Fate (荷語名Speling van het Lot，這邊有個小雙關，因為酒廠桶陳所在地的小鎮就名為Lot)，多是經桶裝陳年熟成，甚至同時浸漬各種或其他特殊混合物，大多不惜成本且突破傳統釀造手法，是酒廠對比利時傳統Lambic 求新求變的釀造哲學展現。去年剛好趕上酒廠針對此系列的第二次公開活動(Twist of Fate II)，現場供應多達21款系列酒款，其中大多是Fruit Lambic，使用各種葡萄或莓果(草莓、黑莓、藍莓、樹莓、比利時原生櫻桃…等等)，有時更有用複數水果以特定比例勾兌的版本。
個人對當次新作中的第八系列「Shaarbeekse On A Toast (Medium)」特別有印象，基底都是先將比利時原生櫻桃Schaarbeekse的Lambic在中度烘烤程度的法國橡木桶中陳年熟成，共有三種變奏版本，分別是桶陳完直接裝瓶的Raw & Uncut版本、桶陳後再與年輕Lambic混釀的Blended & Alive版本，還有陳釀時多加同等比例的覆盆子一起桶陳其他同前的Blended & Alive版本。個人最後第二種混釀的變奏版，展現明顯類似肉桂般香料風味，但相較於未混釀前版本展現過頭的香料感，以及加覆盆子版本梢甜的底韻相比，這款卻與基底的木質調和櫻桃酸香平衡得很好，不是當天全部喝完最喜歡的酒款，但卻是令我印象最深刻的代表作！
Twist of Fate( or Speling van bet Lot) is the experimental series by 3Fonteinen launched in 2018---basically it's about using fruits and or other food items to try and find new dimensions for existing lambic variants---attended open tasting session2 while in Europe-- there were all in 21 variants for on site tasting. Personally most impressed with No.8 which is Schaarbeekse on a toast (medium) --basically a sour cherry lambic aged in toasted oak barrel--with that came also 3 different variants of this alone---raw & uncut version，blended & alive with younger lambic version as well as blended & alive with raspberries version---while these might not be the most balanced or delicious of the day---but certainly most memorable.
6. Goossens – Lambic (1957-1962)e owners
因緣際會下跟友人一起分享一款裝瓶年份約莫在西元1957年到1962年之間，幾乎是六十年前的陳年Lambic，據賣方表示應該是來自一間比利時Schepdaal地區已倒閉的當地酸啤廠Goossens，某家啤酒咖啡廳經營者後代發現這批啤酒同時，也找到一些從1933年開始其家族向酒廠購買啤酒的收據，猜測是由酒廠整桶性的供應給店家後，讓他們自行依需求裝瓶分裝出售。因時空背景關係這款酒已無法確定是屬於未調和Lambic或經新舊酒款調和的Gueuze，加上酒廠已在西元1968年正式閉廠，無法取得較近期新鮮品項，所以品飲當天另準備其他當代比利時酸啤廠中較具代表性的多家酒廠的新鮮基本款Gueuze來同時比較。令人驚訝的是這款陳年酸啤並沒有早先預想的撲鼻霉味，依然保有明亮宜人的酸度及適當的Funky風味，但是與其他新鮮品項比對可以發現酒色相對深沉了不少，尾韻帶出類似藍紋起司那般的風味也更為明顯，但相隔幾周後另一群朋友再開了一瓶，可能在開瓶過程中稍微發霉的軟木塞碎屑有掉進酒中，導致酒款本身喝起來帶些不討喜的霉味，只能說這種未經適當保存的陳年老酒，還是得看運氣！
It was by chance that this bottle which is from almost 60 years ago--old lambic bottle from Schepdaal area--believed to be lambic supplied by Goosens to a local cafe bar---and then bottled by the cafe owners somehow landed in Taiwan.
On the day of tasting---there were some other "newer years" Gueuze from the other existing recent producers---this old bottle did not gave off any unpleasant rotten smells though color was much deeper than the "newer" ones--sourness was clear with funk with blue cheese like finishing.
A few weeks later--opened another same old bottle with another group of friends--perhaps when opening some bits parts of old cork dropped into the beer---there was very obvious unpleasant rotten funk---looks like opening old bottles does require some luck?
7. Bokke (Methode Goat) - Framboos
Pjassel Kriek 2018
在前年MBCT活動上對Bokke可說是一喝傾心，去年丹麥行Bokke也是久違的新酒市，一次端出十幾款新酒，除了在啤酒節會場和Mikkeller Baghaven單日限定的單杯之外，有幾款甚至有另外與同好開單瓶細細品嘗(Abrighost 2018, Framboos，Vanille 2018, Wijngaard – Wurzer
& Rieslimg)，其中印象最深刻的非使用了新鮮覆盆子、種在葡萄園的桃子(Vinyard Peach)，還有比利時本土酸櫻桃(Gorsem Sour Cherry) 總共三種不同水果的Framboos
Pjassel Kriek 2018莫屬。還記得熟透的桃子香氣先出現，喝下後可以感受到明顯的覆盆子、木質調，中後段迸發櫻桃酸香，帶點櫻桃皮的單寧澀感，但尾韻乾爽滑順，上述紅色莓果風味恰如其分的輪流閃現，非常有深度又兼具層次的好酒。Bokke不愧是在酸啤界中少數能將繁複水果風味完美展現的專家！
Totally fell in love with Bokke ever since first encounter during MBCT 18---and again met with many more new/different variants of Bokke in Copenhagen last year be it at the event venue or Mikkeller Baghaven--of all the variants--the one which stuck in mind the most was this one which utilized raspberries+ vinyar peaches+ gorsern sour cherries---with distinct nose of ripe peaches--mouth feel was raspberries, oak, followed by cherry sour tone/ tannin--dry yet smooth finishing. A really nice one with depth.
8. Chimay Blue 1989 & 1999 & 2009
& 2019himay Blue
在比利時行程尾聲特別探訪在全球啤迷間聞名的安特衛普名店Cafe Kulminator，擁有極為驚人的高年份比利時啤酒收藏。除了酸啤收藏之外，隔壁桌客人也特別指點我們可以跟老闆討論以十年為跨度，針對經典修道院啤酒進行垂直品飲，因此我們一眾酒友特別挑了經典修道院酒款Chimay Blue進行高年份垂直品飲：1989、1999、2009和2019，另外加點據說近年來評價最好的年份2014版本。喝完之後反倒是1989年的版本在焦糖基調中帶點巧克力甜香和葡萄果柑的風味，在中後段透出類似淺焙咖啡的酸香感，雖然事先已經聽其他酒友分享過，但實際喝到還是覺得神奇，從未想過這款經典修道院啤酒陳年後的風味展現竟會如此！
Cafe Kulminator is q big name bar to many geeks not only in Antwerp but globally---apart from collections of lambic---there's also possibility of doing vertical tasting of some classic Belgium beers with 10 years gap in between---and so we did a session of Chimay Blue from 1989-1999-2009-2019--as well adding a highly regarded 2014 bottle---the most memorable one was the old bottle from1989--while the base tone were that of caramel,chocolate and raisin---there's almost lightly toasted coffee aroma and sourness coming through--though heard it before from other geeks who have had that kind of tasting experience---it was still amazing to have tasted it myself--never knew/thought of vintage Trappist beer would taste like that...
9. Tommie Sjef Wild Ales – Druif 2018
早在前年就聽過這間荷蘭在地酸啤廠的大名，其實在歐洲行剛好還遇到他們家新酒發售，但因行程來不及上網購買，連到荷蘭後酒專都表示還沒正式到貨，正想說可能要找特定酒吧賭看看內用，沒想到竟在另一間鼎鼎有名的荷蘭酒廠De Molen外帶販賣處發現他們家的葡萄酸啤Druif！這款成名作目前為止每年都會挑不同的葡萄品種下去釀造，我喝的2018版本使用一款來自匈牙利的原生葡萄品種Kékfrankos (台灣譯為藍色法蘭克)，些微酸度帶明顯葡萄果香，隨著回溫越發奔放明顯，而且有些許單寧感，我涉獵葡萄酒不深，但這款酒的確讓我覺得模糊了啤酒和葡萄酒間的分野，非常有趣，我前後喝過兩次，建議大家有機會喝到，最好慢慢回溫喝，變化很有趣。前陣子聽說亞洲已經有國家引進(ex.日本)，希望今年還有機會再喝看看他們家更多作品。
Heard about this Dutch sour beer maker from two years ago--while travelling in Europe there was a day when they were releasing new beer but did not manage to go online to buy--just when i thought perhaps going to find a bottle or two to drink in at the bar would be the only way out---found this famous brew from them at De Molen bottle shop---this is a brew using different grapes--mine was one using grapes from Hungary--tasting light sour with clear notes of grapes aroma and became even clearer after warmer with tannin--This is one which i thought blurred the boundary between beer and wine---very interesting---heard that there's already some bottles popping up in Asia( examples Japan)---if you drink this--try to wait up and slow sip---the changes it generates is interesting.
to be continued.......
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