Friday, February 7, 2020

2019 Most Memorable Beer List--by Andy(TW) Part 2/2

Here's the second and final part of Andy's list:-

10. Mikkeller Baghaven - Stella 2019 & Polly 2019
或許有酒友知道Mikkeller負責人Mikkel為了他的r兩位女兒StellaPolly每年都會特別釀造同名紀念酒(台灣曾在米吧開幕前後進過Polly1Stella 6),而從2018年起這兩款都改在Mikkeller 旗下以野生酵母為釀造核心的桶陳基地Mikkeller Baghaven推出,包含最新版Stella 2019Polly 2019。之前在MBCT有短暫品嘗幾款Mikkeller Baghaven的酒,但因天氣炎熱其實記憶點不多,但去年丹麥行特別到酒廠買的這兩瓶使用丹麥當地野生酵母或細菌,及本地原生水果進行陳釀的酒款,卻讓我大受感動,對Mikkeller重拾信心。Stella2019分別以2:1比例勾兌浸漬德國晚摘Riesling 白酒葡萄和種植在葡萄園中的新鮮桃子(vineyard peach)的野生酸啤,含蓄但飽滿的蜜桃風味揉合明亮酸度緩緩釋放;Polly 2019則分別以2:1比例勾兌浸漬奇異莓(奇異果的一種分支水果)和新鮮芭樂的野生酸啤,撲鼻芭樂香氣喝下帶奇異果酸香,兩者都分別由其中一款水果主導香氣、另一款提供適當酸度來作平衡,完美平衡水果風味和酸度,可惜因為各限量500瓶,後來似乎不好在其他地方買到!
Those who follow Mikkeller would know that Mikkel the head honcho would brew special beers for his two princesses Polly and Stella---these two were brewed with local wild yeast and locally planted fruits---having tasted some not so memorable Mikkeller Baghaven earlier during MBCT 18( probably due to overly hot weather at the open air venue back then)--these two beers certainly restored lost confidence with Baghaven.
Stella 2019 were blend of Riesling grapes + wine yard peaches--it was full of peach goodness with subtle sourness--while Polly 2019 were blended with Danish kiwi berries + guava, came with nice nose of guava with taste of kiwi berries sourness---Both seems to get nice nose from 1 fruit while the other fruit provided some fruity sourness in a balance way---nice but sadly due to limitation of 500 bottles each---seems harder to find outside of CPH.

11. Mikkeller Baghaven x Raf – Sensei
這款由Mikkeller Baghaven與當紅比利時酸啤新星Bokke聯手釀造的特殊啤酒SENSEI,是一款將100%丹麥當地發酵的燕麥農村Saison與數款釀成一年的年輕Lambic勾兌後,再進Chardonna(夏多內)白葡萄酒桶陳14個月的特殊野生發酵酸啤,結合Mikkeller Baghaven當家釀酒師兼調酒師Ehren豐富的Saison混野生發酵啤酒經驗,和Bokke調酒師Raf為人津津樂道的Lambic勾兌功力。十分明亮卻溫和的酸度引出杏桃或德國白酒的風味,些微辛香料的暗示、熟悉的Funky和木質調風味分別出現,整體風味平衡巧妙卻繁複有層次的緩緩展現,值得細細慢酌的傑作!據說去年底的MBCT上也有悄悄出現,被幾位四場次都有參加的酒友譽為全場最喜歡酒款!老實說當天過去有點晚,外帶瓶裝都賣光了,感謝當天在外供應限量單杯的Bokke團隊分享這瓶Ehren開給他們現場喝的瓶裝,讓我一解扼腕的遺憾,非常感謝他們對我的照顧!
A collaboration brew--blending locally brewed Danish Oat Saison by Ehren of Mikkeller Baghaven and different lambic by Raf of Bokke fame--then aged in Chardonnay barrel for 14 months--bright and mild sourness with apricot/Riesling flavours, hints of spices with funky/oaky tone---balance with depth which unveiled it's fullness slowly---special thanks to the Bokke team for taking care of me on this one.

12. Lervig x Stillwater Artisanal - TIMES 8
這是一款甜香飽滿但尾韻不過黏膩的甜點啤酒,強烈香草、巧克力層層襲來,酒體和風味都十分飽滿,同時也暗藏咖啡、太妃糖、楓糖、些微椰奶般的底韻,但喝起來卻不太有負擔,同時也將酒精感藏得極好,令人驚豔的液態甜點,價格也非常實惠不會像那些一瓶難尋的天價神酒!要說缺點的話就是回溫後會逐漸甜感炸裂,但還是感受不太到酒精感。
A dessert stout that's sweet and full of vanilla, chocolate goodness with  hints of coffee, toffee, maple syrup as well some coconut milk like under tone---alcohol were very nicely hidden--not a heavy one to drink--a very nice dessert stout especially if considering price factor(unlike some hard to find pricey big hyped stouts)--if any the one obvious flaws were that it became overly sweet after warmer.

13. Great Notion –Big Papaya
這款由Big Papa詞彙延伸而來的「Big Papaya」是近年當紅的甜點啤酒中少見的分支「Pastry Sour」,聞起來充滿熱帶水果軟糖的奇妙香氣,喝下也像是咬下一口三合一水果軟糖的甜香,也有點像台灣童年會出現的那種紅綠相間外表的西瓜硬糖,搭配恰到好處的酸度平衡口感,大口喝下也不會膩口,作為早餐啤酒取代那杯常見果汁每天喝都沒問題!雖然我喝到時幾乎無台灣本土那種木瓜風味,只有尾韻帶些微弱瓜果感,不知道是不是裝罐時間較久,果味消失殆盡。來自波特蘭的Great Notion是近年來大受好評的新銳酒廠,除了擅長NE IPA之外,甜點啤酒也是他們的強項,不僅僅Pastry Stout,熱愛甜點的創始團隊成員更是結合當紅NE IPA風潮和甜點概念推出不少膾炙人口的啤酒,台灣去年也曾短暫空運引進三款桶啤,希望今年還有機會在台灣看到.
A pastry stout which smell and taste like tropical fruits soft candies--brought back childhood memories of melon soft candies with some sourness--easy drinking--even good to drink as replacement breakfast juices though i did not get much Papaya flavours only some faint hints of it---not sure if its due to time factor.
Taiwan did saw very few kegs of Great Notion flown in last year--hopefully will get to see and sample some more from this brewery known for their love of pastry stouts as well NEIPA.
14. Cascade x Bruery Terreux – One Way or Another 2017
The Bruery Terreux x Cascade– One Way or Another 2016
美西兩間野生酸啤大廠Bruery TerreuxCascade2016年推出的聯名Sour Tripel,分別用兩酒廠所在地特產水果──象徵前者的加洲梅爾檸檬(Meyer Lemon)和代表後者的奧勒岡特有黑莓(Marionberry),以同個酒譜,但不同酒廠各以自家手法釀造不同批次方式,來呼應酒名。先以比利時三倍當基酒同樣加入檸檬皮和黑莓桶陳超過一年,再各自混桶裝瓶。台灣剛好都由臺虎精釀代理並在去年先後引進同款聯名作,讓我有機會比較兩次喝到的差異!
先喝到的 Bruery Terreux 750ml瓶裝版本,酒色較暗沉偏暗紅棕,帶醃漬檸檬、些微辛香料感,中後段引出沙士、肉桂般香料感,最後帶些深色莓果、葡萄果乾底韻,雖酸度強勁且酒精度較高,但回溫後越喝越平衡滑口,收口乾爽;而後在啜飲室Landmark周年活動登場的是Cascade原廠去年好評再發布的第二批桶裝版本(2017),酒色相較更亮更紅一點,酸度較適中,相較之下更偏糖果感的黑莓風味展現,尾韻甚至有些優格的酸香想像,整體風味也更明亮活潑!兩者雖同樣都能在酸甜適中的表現中感受鮮明果味,但個人覺得Bruery Terreux更強調選桶對水果風味交互影響的結果(酵母採用比利時著名的Saccharomyces酵母可能也有影響),選用多達四種不同桶來勾兌(後者僅使用葡萄酒桶);而Cascade更注重以桶陳手段襯托水果本身風味!
Collaboration brew between 2 famed  US breweries--each using a local fruit---Meyer Lemon from California and Marion Berry from Oregon---Belgian triple were used as the base beer while both breweries apply their own brewing method utilizing those two same fruits to make seemingly same but somehow different barrel aging beers.
These two were available in Taiwan market so had the opportunity to sample both---first had the one brewed by Bruety Terreux--beer color was deep amber with taste of pickled lemon and spices, hints of cinnamon and dark fruits--though with high abv and strong sourness but became smoother more balance after warmer with dry finish. The one by Cascade were showing brighter red with lighter sour note--almost black berry candy like taste with hints of almost yogurt like finishing. 
In a way--both breweries were showing what influences different way of barrel aging could bring about---Bruery version were blend of 4 different barrel--while Cascade kept to single wine barrel.

15. Fremont –The Rusty Nail (2018)
這款Rusty Nail基底是以FremontFirst Nail再過波本桶陳15個月後才裝瓶,原始基底是一款燕麥司陶特,添加了甘草、煙熏大麥、淡色麥芽和肉桂(桂皮)。喝下從香氣帶來椰奶、肉桂開始,巧克力、咖啡與許多人害怕的肉桂風味融合極好,微微帶點柴燒果乾的煙燻甜香感與柔和甘草風味,稍微黏稠且厚重的酒體恰與最後帶出的些微辛辣酒精感平衡,餘韻綿長,讓人回味再三!
喝過許多帶肉桂風味的深色桶陳酒款,都會因太過頭的肉桂風味而失衡,但這款將肉桂隱味藏得極好,完美呈現層次也藏住酒感,少見結構精奇的佳釀!
A bourbon barrel version of their oatmeal stout First Nail--was giving off coconut milk--cinnamon-chocolate, coffee was blending nicely with cinnamon which some people dislike---some wood burnt dried fruits and soft licorice flavours coming through the thick and sticky liquid balance out the slight alcohol spiciness--long finish which was memorable.One of the best cinnamon flavour stouts i have had.

16. Bottle Logic x Great Notion–Paisley Cave Complex (2018)
提到Bottle Logic大家都會想到加入大量香草和過四種不同美國波本威士忌廠的波本桶陳的經典成名作Fundamental Observation,去年初與LA酒友的分享會上喝到後非常喜歡,但是更愛同場分享會上另一款與Great Notion聯名的Paisley Cave Complex,將帝國司陶特加入大量藍莓(猜想是因Great Notion成名作Blueberry Muffin的關係)與棉花糖再過波本桶陳,成就這款甜香不膩的藍莓巧克力液態甜點。酒款的發想來自美國露營常見的一款甜點:巧克力棉花糖夾心餅,而且這款還是抹上藍莓果醬的口味(),最讓人喜愛的是雖然酒體略厚,但除了巧克力、香草以及似藍莓果醬般的甜香外,尾韻卻不過黏膩,實在討喜!幾個月後在MBCC上也試了其他加覆盆子和可可豆再過波本桶陳釀造的Jam the Radar,也敵不過對這款的喜愛!
The brewery famous for their vanilla bourbon black magic of Fundamental Observation---while having a bottle share with LA geek friends--found this collab-brew with Great Notion much to my liking---throwing lots of blueberry(because of Blueberry Muffin by Great Notion influence?) and marshmallows in Bourbon barrel---this is one delicious liquid blueberry chocolate dessert--sweet but never cloying--absolutely pleasing---after which tasted the other variants (such as Raspberry or Cocoa) of Jam the Radar--still much prefer this one.

17. Horus Aged Ales – Romero
這是一間擅長桶陳啤酒,尤其是帝國司陶特啤酒的南加新廠,添加特殊精品咖啡豆或其他輔料的桶陳深色啤酒更是大受好評,早在參加MBCC前就聽加州朋友特別推薦我一試,在我參與的場次(Yellow Session)是我一入場第一個排的攤位,馬上就大排長龍延伸到中央主通道,人氣一點也不輸給其他酒廠。官方有特別公布MBCC四個場次各有一款以同樣基底、過同樣桶陳(法國橡木桶)、同樣加榛果下去釀造,只差在加入不同的精品咖啡豆,我喝的這款是加入薩爾瓦多莊園豆(El Salvador Kilimanjaro Duo Coffee),猜測是來自鄰近地區知名烘豆店Bird Rock Coffee Roasters的獨家精品豆,啤酒本身有著濃郁榛果甜香,帶出香草、黑可可、咖啡風味,層次繁複但尾韻不會過於甜膩,隱約還有焦糖和一些深色果乾的變化,當時邊在Bokke展位前排隊邊品這款,為了等候回溫還特別回集合桌找同伴邊喝邊感受,可能也是因為很前面就喝了,讓我印象特別深刻!可惜我沒有參加其他場次無法比較加不同咖啡豆風味的差異。
A south Cali brewery known for their Imperial Stouts--geek friend strongly recommended so they were the first booth i went to line up during Yellow session of MBCC 19( it became a very long line in minutes)--the one i had was variant with El Salvador Kilimanjaro duo coffee bean---it was full of hazelnut flavours with vanilla, dark chocolate, coffee--complex one with hints of caramel and dark fruits--sweet but not over---only regrets is can't join the other 3 sessions to sample other variants of the same beer.

18. HFS - Society & SolitudeSingle Hop Series
從前年開始接觸Hill Farmstead (HFS)農村啤酒後,去年忍不住托友人幫忙,一連喝了十幾款355m罐裝的酒花風格系列作品,範圍涵蓋單一酒花系列到複數酒花使用的酒款,對於HFS在強調酒花風格的理解和運用特別喜愛。不像一般NE IPA過於甜香的風味展現與容易膩的失衡感,HFS保持乾爽尾韻的同時,也常適時帶出麥芽甜韻、辛香料感或啤酒花苦韻來中和果汁感,比方說Single Hop系列的RIWAKA(當然也有可能是我對這款酒花情有獨鍾) Society & Solitude系列 (我第一個嘗試的 S&S #4 是我最愛 ),酒花風味不會過於暴力呈現,展現出平凡中見不凡的釀造哲學!
Ever since my first Hill Farmstead saison back in 2018--last year through geek friend's help had the opportunity to sample over 10 different hops focus beers from HFS--be it single hop or mix of different hops---totally love the way hops are utilized--unlike the at times too sweet or overly cloying NEIPA---they have a way of keeping a nice balance of dry yet refreshing finish with sweet malty tone, spices flavours as well bitterness from hops---showing greatness in seemingly ordinary beer is what they do.

19. Old Nation – Boss Tweed
剛聞一口就有熱帶水果甜香襲來,喝起來帶有芒果、柑橘的水果風味,並隱約有桃子甜香,收尾乾爽但水果甜香餘韻綿長,在連續幾天的酸啤洗禮後是第一款讓我驚豔的酒花風格酒款,尤其當時我與朋友正窩在濕冷的酒吧門口正在喝Cantillon Blåbær,坐在我們隔壁的挪威朋友邊分享他手上這杯酒花炸彈,邊跟我們聊起他手上的刺青由來 ( 這是一個在前年的MBCC活動中一時腦熱刺完我愛啤酒後回家被老婆罵臭頭的悲慘故事,敬這位熱愛啤酒的真男人! )
Had this one after few days of lambic/sour beers "attack"--first sip already full of sweet aroma of tropical fruits with mango/citrus goodness and hints of peach--clean finishing with lasting tropical fruitiness---this is a beer shared by a fellow geek from Norway while drinking Blabaer on a chilly day outside of a bar in Copenhagen--and this guy showed us his tattoo inked duriing mbcc 18 which got him in some sort of trouble with his wife..")---salute to this guy who really love craft beer.

20. Russian River –STS Pils
好久沒有因為喝到皮爾森而大受感動了,上一次應該是剛接觸重酒花皮爾森的時候了。雖然Russian River向來以DIPA和桶陳酸啤著名,但是這款STS Pils以麥芽甜韻為主導風味,口感乾淨清脆,收尾恰到好處的啤酒花苦韻,實在是優秀,是能大口暢飲的好東西,順帶一提,當天同時開喝酒廠經典的酒花系酒款Pliny the ElderBlind PigHappy Hops等等,但對我來說卻覺得這款一點也不遜色,令我回味無窮、想一喝再喝!
It's been a long while since i was emotionally moved because of a nice Pilsner--though Russian River is very famous for their hops beers and sours---this one with malty sweetness as main flavour direction was really clear cut with nice touch of some hops flavour towards the end---really outstanding---one which is also good for gulping down---though on the same day/session there were also some big names like Pliny the Elder- Blind Pig- Happy Hops--this one held it's ground so well it's really memorable--one which i would love to drink again and again....

這次挑選最有印象的酒款跟以往又不太相同,雖然去年參加MBCC喝到許多好酒,但在時間有限、品飲條件不佳的狀況下,有些酒款可能都還沒好好喝到其變化層次,所以選出酒款仍以有好整以暇品飲的酒款居多。當然即使如此也有許多遺珠之憾,比方說幾間美國新廠Foam, Homes, Homage, WeldWerks還有歐洲的Mills等等,另外也因為去年實在沒機會接觸到太多蜜酒,導致這次名單在蜜酒方面是從缺的,難免有些可惜,希望今年還有機會能好好補強這部分,以上內容希望能對大家有所助益,Cheers !
When picking beers for the list--the priority was on beers which i have had enough time to savour---though went to MBCC 19 but with limited time where some beers did not really showed it's full potential with enough warming up time--so not the best of condition for tasting---hence most beers picked here were from much more relaxed tasting sessions---of course there are quite many good ones which were not listed here---for examples Foam, Homes. Homage. WeldWerks, Mills and so on---also with very few opportunity to sample mead---this time the list is unfortunately missing out on mead---hopefully this year will see some improvement on mead.
Hope the list can be helpful to the readers---cheers.

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